Ladies Crochet Tunic sweater – February 2004   CJ Roshak
You can adjust this sweater to the length you want, and you can subtract sts to make it smaller around.
You can also work a design into this sweater, as each row is joined at the side of the body, then the front and back portions from the armhole up are worked individually. Just be aware that the pattern stitch might make your design look differently from how you think it’ll look. As written, the finished sweater measures 19” to armhole from hem edge.

Finished size: 45” around chest [size Large]

Fingering Yarn: 1 cone MC, 1 cone CC. I used Tamm Astracryl 3 ply for this sweater. You wont need much of the CC color, so if you can find a ball of fingering yarn that is 50 grams it might be enough. Just make sure that they are the same thickness and work to the same gauge as the MC you use. You can order the same Tamm yarn I used by going to June Bug’s place. The link is on the main free pattern page. I washed the sample sweater in cold water, gentle cycle, gentle soap [I used Woolight], then put it in the dryer on low heat for about 15 minutes. Remove from dryer and hang to dry the rest of the way if needed.
G hook
Scissors
Safety pins or lengths of thread to mark rows and sides. Move the pins up the sweater at the sides as you work, and mark sts as indicated.

Pattern stitch: Seed Stitch: sc in dc of previous row, dc in sc of previous row. For body, always end with dc before joining with a sl st. Ch 1 and turn at end of each row unless other wise stated. When ending a row in dc that is not joined, end it in hdc. It keeps the edge smoother looking, less wavy.

Hem [mark 94 sts for each side ‘seam’]
Starting at bottom, ch 190. Ch 1, turn, sc in second chain from hook, sc across. Join, making sure you don’t twist the chain.  Work 4 more rows sc.

Body – begin pattern stitch
Work first row in back loops only.
R 2-3:  work pattern.
R4: fold up hem to the back, with the free loops [the front loops that are unworked from row 5 of hem] hanging to make a sharp edge to the hem.  Hold hem against body rows that have been worked. Work  row  4 thru both the first row of hem and the previous row [row 3]. The hem will be on the inside of the garment.
R5-81: work pattern. [or to desired length]

Mark front with a safety pin or a CC thread tied thru several stitches.

Mark  both side seams on last row worked. Make sure there are the same amount of stitches between them on both front and back of garment. [95 sts each side]

Note for working back and front:
  If the first stitch on the previous row is a dc, join new yarn with a sc on top of it, then work in pattern across to last st before marker. If the first st on the previous row is a sc, join new yarn with a sl st, ch 1, dc in same space, then work in pattern across to next marker. Ch 1 at end of each row, turn. To start a row with a dc, dc in same st as the ch 1. To start a row with a sc, sc in same st as the ch 1. To end a row in dc, work one hdc instead. Ch 1 is never counted.

Back
Chain 15, attach to first st on back [sc or dc], work across to other seam marker, ch 16. Turn.
R 2 – work pattern stitch in second ch from hook, work in pattern across rest of chain, work pattern across back, work pattern across other chain. Ch 1, turn.[ If ending in dc, work hdc instead.]
R 3 – 34 [adjust to fit]:  work in pattern across for each row.

Shoulder
Find center back. Mark 8 sts to each side of center.
Work in pattern across 54 sts, dec next 2 together. [55 sts]
R 2 – Ch 1, sk first st, work in pattern to end of row. [54 sts]
R 3 – Work across row in pattern, dec last 2 sts together [53 sts]
R 4 – Ch 1, sk first st, work in pattern to end of row. End off. [52 sts]
Work second shoulder to match, putting decreases at neck edge.

Front
With right side facing:
Attach yarn with pattern sts in first ch of back sleeve. Work in pattern across chain, attach to front with pattern stitch, work across front, work across other sleeve chain. Ch 1, turn.
R 2 – 24: work even in pattern.
Find center of front, mark off 3 sts at each side of center. You should now have 60 sts on each side.

Starting on one side, work pattern across, dec last 2 sts together [at neck edge]. Ch 1, turn.
R 26 – 31: continue in pattern, decreasing at neck edge. [52 sts at end of row 31]
R 32 – 38: work even on 52 sts.

Sew shoulders together.

Using MC yarn, you can work a row of sc around neckline, and either work one more of reverse single crochet, or work a lacy edging: sc in first sc, ch 1, sc in next sc, repeat around. Would also look nice around sleeve edging. For the ribbing around the sleeves, as shown in my sample, attach yarn to center of underarm, ch 6, turn, sc across 5 ch, sl st in next st on sleeve, sl st in next st on sleeve, turn. Sc in back loops for rest of ribbing. Skip the sl sts, and sc in last sc worked, sc to end of row, ch 1, turn. Repeat around, then sew or crochet last row and first row together. I worked all rows in the back loops, except for the edge sts. I worked those in both loops to help it retain strength while wearing.

 Using tapestry needle, work any loose ends into garment if you haven’t worked them thru while working the pattern. Clip close to stitching. Turn right side out.

Original pattern by CJ Roshak.  Do NOT post on any list or any other web site, and do NOT include in any collection, without written permission from me.
March 2004